It seems like forever since I blogged or even touched any piece of technology – over a week since that last evening in Colima – because we`ve been hugging the beach village until this place – a huge bay of reefs blue waters and wooded mountains – Zihautanejo. That next day was especially mad – after leaving Colima we had to find a local bus centre and headed for one of the larger villages called Ameria about two hours away. Only this place was well, desolate and instead of finding helpful bus drivers who could direct us onwards we found a raving mad burly Mexican man ranting in pidgin English about how his wife was a bitch and how he hated niggers because one had shot his arm up. Of course we did escape as always helped by the carefully placed local woman who had spent a few years working in the States and has just enough English.
After escaping Ameria we found our way to a building site in Tecoman – our first off-bible experience of the trip. And then we really had no idea what to do. I think my Spanish had at that point reached its maximum potential so far and again we got to the bus station and found our bus to Calleta de Capmos, situated on a headland over looking the miles of volcanic sands we had passed before and a sheltered bay in front. Calletta doesn`t really seem to stick in my mind but we met some nice people and had what Mark claims to be the best tacos hes eaten yet (and also the cheapest). (Taco’s take a very different form to any english equivalent – thin savory tortillas not crunchy but like wraps almost, with some spicy meat. Then you add the onion and the coriander and the varying types of salsas. In Mexico City this was followed by fried potatoes, fried onions perhaps some guacamole. In Caletta this was replaced with a warm bean sauce, and some tomato and radish salad and some more hot sauce.) I suppose the experience was ruined by our chronic sunburn and heatstroke – of which we had to take a day out and travel with backpacks the next day. Our first day on the beach was naive but incredible – a deserted mile of pounding waves that we spent the whole day in and out of and drinking coconut milk. Afterwards we suffered horribly – but it possibly was worth it in looking back.
On the coast you have to approach the day differently – getting up slightly earlier and siesta-ing between 1300 and 1700 when it is unbearably hot. After three nights in Caletta we found our way via a series of crazy buses to the tiny surf village of Troncones where we succeeded in perfecting this. We got a little green bungalow ting well, a large room with a balcony where nobody else was staying and we even had a fridge (all for about 3.50 sterling a night) The fridge meant that we were semi-self-sufficient (at least in milk and cereal and in Pina-Coladas). The food was good here and we rented surfboards and tried to learn for a couple of days. It’s been pretty damn laid back on the coast – just swimming and sleeping and eating and drinking in the evening. So far – two big bottles if tequila and a bottle of rum is the tally, but we haven’t really got drunk yet`- just chilled out in the evening times (although we bought giant shot glasses last night and subsequently slept in to 1100).
Yesterday (I wont explain yet more bus journeys and arrivals) we went snorkeling at the best beach (only accessible by ferry) – playa Las Gatos. It was pretty beautiful there and lots of amazingly colored fish (which I managed to completely swim around and miss). And last night I had my first Red Snapper, which here is just under lobster and stingray in terms of class in the seafood. Fried in garlic butter, it was delicious. The most fantastic part about Zihautanejo is our room – Will made us find a sea view and we discovered this seemingly abandoned hotel built in a gulley down the steep hills to the oceans next to all the really posh ones. Our room is overlooking the wooded gulley and is on a huge balcony. We have between us a hammock space a double bed outside a triple bed and a single inside, plus the rest of the hotels (or just our long balconies) bench chair table and hammock spaces. Hence the long siestas and tequila last night. In Troncoles I was sleeping on my roll mat (having drawn a short straw… long story) so this is absolute luxury. And the whole place is overrun by geckos which we watch for entertainment when they come out around midnight to hunt moths. Last night I also catalyzed (of which there may be many) Cicada fight – catching this unfortunate cicada and lobbing it in peoples beds – very immature but much fun when drunk.
So that’s the story so far. This morning at this ex-pat American café where they do cheap coffee and great breakfasts an American guy said Las Barritas is good so we might be heading there, but my next post will probably be from Acapolco. Today we are exploring the town (did I mention that this place is very picturesque and beautiful), tomorrow we are hoping to charter a boat and go to the best snorkeling beach around a few km down the coast. So hello to all of you back in Britain, Italy or Greece or wherever, it’s great to here from all of you on the internet…. So Godspeed everyone.
P.s. I hope Shaldon fest was great – also special hello to Duncan, Frank, Josh and Jimmy and Pearcey (p.p.s. well done we knew you had it in you) and Robbie if you pick it up.
P.p.p.s We haven’t been to anywhere with Internet connections for a long while so that’s why this is so old news, I didn’t explain that in the beginning.
